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To Exfoliate or Not to Exfoliate


As a twenty-year-old woman, I’ve had my fair share of skincare products and routines. Moisturizers, acne creams, face cleansers and now eye wrinkle creams (hey, you’ve got to start early if you want to look like Jennifer Lopez at 47 – even then it’s a long shot). But one product that causes endless confusion is face exfoliator – is it beneficial, is it harmful, is it even worth it?

It seems as if there is a disconnect between beauty companies and dermatologists. While companies continue to create and advertise exfoliators, dermatologists I’ve spoken to in the past express a different sentiment: exfoliators are often more trouble than they’re worth. Despite their ability to create soft, glowing skin, exfoliators are easily misused, so it’s important to understand the risks and benefits of using an exfoliator.

Risks:

  • Harsh exfoliators (with abrasive mircobeads or strong chemicals) can irritate the skin, causing redness or blotchiness.

  • Skin sensitivities are easily aggravated by exfoliators if not used correctly.

  • Microbeads can go into the water system and harm wildlife (although this has been remedied by laws and petitions to beauty companies).

  • Too much exfoliation and not enough sunscreen can lead to short term and long term sun damage.

Benefits:

  • Exfoliators remove dead skin cells, making the skin smoother, softer and brighter.

  • Exfoliators improve the absorption of other products you may use in your skin care regimen (moisturizers, vitamin complexes, acne treatments, etc.).

  • Exfoliators help prevent blemishes or clogged pores that can result from excessive dead skin cells on the face.

If you do decide to use an exfoliator, be sure to follow these tips to avoid the risks listed above.

1. If you can, consult your dermatologist before buying an exfoliator. They will know the structure of your skin better than anyone, so they will know whether or not you can handle (or even need) an exfoliator.

2. Choose an exfoliator that is right for your skin. With a wide range of skin types and an even wider selection of exfoliators, choosing a product that is gentle yet effective can be a challenge. Variables include skin sensitivity, redness, oiliness or dryness, skin conditions you may have, and products you use already. If you have sensitive skin, an exfoliator may not be advisable, but if you feel you need one, a very gentle product without microbeads or scrubbing agents may work well for you.

3. Exfoliate once or twice a week, not every day. Depending on the intensity of the exfoliator you choose, your exfoliation schedule may require more or less frequency.

4. Warm your skin before exfoliating. You can do this by applying exfoliator after you shower or by briefly covering your face with a warm washcloth. By applying exfoliator to clean, open pores, your skin will better absorb the product and it will be more effective.

5. Apply gently using a soft application tool or your own fingers. Despite our tendency to want to quickly smooth out any imperfections in our skin, scrubbing increases the risk of irritation, which may cause redness or dryness.

6. Moisturize after exfoliating. Exfoliating can often make your skin feel tight or dry, so it’s important to help your skin recover. Post-exfoliation is also the best time to apply any skin products, as it improves the absorption of the skin.

Exfoliation isn't the only way to rejuvenate your skin. Check out these tips by Michelle Phan to create a skincare routine that will make your skin soft, bright and happy!

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